An Exclusive Geisha Experience: A Special Setsubun Celebration in Kyoto

Japan is a country where luck plays a surprisingly large role in creating unforgettable moments and memories. The magic of stars aligning can sometimes lead to an encounter so rare that even lifelong residents of Japan may never witness it.

Through the relationships we’ve built and the trust we’ve earned, Untold Japan has been able to open doors to experiences that even the majority of locals don't have access to. This evening was one of those "pinch-me" moments, where one of our exclusive experiences perfectly aligned with Kyoto's traditional Setsubun Festival. A night where Kyoto was on full display.

A Limited Members-Only Dinner with Geisha: A Rare and Timeless Tradition

One of our most requested experiences is a private dinner with a geisha, something around 90% of Japanese people will never experience in their lifetime. Geisha culture thrives on trust, reputation, and tradition. The only way to gain access to a geisha tea house (ochaya) is through a personal introduction—a privilege that cannot simply be bought, no matter the price or person.

I am honored and forever grateful to have a long-standing relationship with a historic tea house in Kyoto. This establishment, over 100 years old, is run by the “Okasan” (owner), an 84-year-old gem who has welcomed us in and shares our passion for preserving this tradition. 

The evening is refined, starting with a locally prepared multi-course kaiseki dinner, accompanied by one or two maiko (apprentice geisha) and an experienced geisha skilled in traditional music, dance, and conversation.

The geisha epitomizes grace, ensuring your glass is never empty and will converse for hours. They are just as interested in your stories as you are in theirs. As dinner progresses, you will be treated to a breathtaking traditional dance performance, a moment so moving it often brings guests to tears.

While that may seem to be the climax of the evening, it doesn’t end there. The geisha invites guests to participate in traditional drinking games, where the loser takes a sip of sake; this playful contrast is fun and shows that there is so much more to the elegance they exude. The night concludes with a final nightcap in the tea house’s downstairs bar, leaving you with a once-in-a-lifetime, unforgettable memory of Japan’s living traditions.

Setsubun: Welcoming a New Season

February 3rd marks Setsubun, a festival to welcome the change of seasons into spring. Setsubun may be one of the lesser-known festivals outside of Japan but has great cultural significance. 

Its main purpose is to drive out evil spirits and invite good fortune, traditionally achieved by throwing roasted soybeans (mamemaki) at shrines, temples, and within homes.

The festival takes on a playful custom that involves choosing a “demon” who wears a mask while others throw the beans at them, enjoyed by children and elders alike across Japan. 

Another key ritual is the eating of ehomaki, an uncut sushi roll, in complete silence while facing the year’s lucky direction. This act is believed to ensure prosperity and happiness for the coming year.

The Magic of Geisha & Setsubun: A Spectacle Unlike Any Other

So, what happens on Setsubun in the Geisha district? What does one have to do with the other? An annual event that provides a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

On the weekend preceding February 3rd, a rare spectacle unfolds across the city’s hidden tea houses. When I was invited to experience it, I could not pass it up.

The evening begins as usual, dining in a private room, having drinks, and chatting with Okasan. But, something feels kind of off, there are no Geisha with us, just an ominous feeling of anticipation. When out of nowhere the doorbell rings and we hear rowdy excitement coming from downstairs.

Two geisha burst into the room, but not in their usual elegant manner. One is dressed as a male character, the other in an elaborate, exaggerated kimono. They proceeded to give us an energetic, comedic performance, a short skit so theatrical and unexpected that we couldn't believe what we'd witnessed. In just a few minutes, they lit up the room with humor, tradition, dance, and song like nothing we'd ever seen before.

We kanpai a cup of sake, and just as quickly as they arrived, they ran out into the night. Over the next few hours, two more pairs of geisha arrive at different times, and the groups each perform their own unique and elaborate skit.

For these geisha, the night is an exhausting marathon. From 6 PM until midnight, they visit over 100 tea houses and establishments, performing tirelessly with the same infectious enthusiasm. It is a part of geisha culture I had no idea existed and something that is rarely seen. They are playful and full of joy, an absolute delight in a completely different way. The contrast between this and the elegant, controlled performances of a traditional evening makes it all the more special.

This is an experience that cannot be scheduled, purchased, or even anticipated. It is an invitation-only glimpse into a secret world, one that even most Kyoto residents will never witness.

How to Experience This Exclusive Event

At Untold Japan, we are lucky to be able to offer access to Kyoto’s geisha experiences. Whether you wish to attend a traditional geisha dinner or, if the timing aligns, witness the magic of Setsubun in Gion, we can make it happen.

These opportunities are extremely limited, and reservations require careful coordination. If you are interested in experiencing the elegance, history, and exclusivity of Kyoto’s hidden geisha culture, contact us today to begin your journey.